Dogs coming to meet us in Bora Bora

Bora Bora or First Born Island

Bora Bora dogs
When will we three meet again,
In thunder, lightning, or in rain?
When the hurly-burly's done,
When the battle's lost and won.
- Shakespeare's Macbeth

Pack of Three on Bora Bora

On a full moon-lit night we were greeted by a pack of three at the entrance to our lodgings. These were gentle beggars. They very discreetly inquired after snacks and when none were forthcoming, dissolved back into the night.

Mystical Three

I saw three packs of three dogs on the three islands we visited. This fascinating idea of three can be traced back to remote antiquity and farther still to primitive man. It occurs naturally and simply. There is a father, mother and child, sun, moon and stars, land, sea and water, birth, life, and death, past, present, and future. In humankind, there is a homogeneity of mind when it comes to three.

Ancient Egypt’s divine triad was Osiris, Isis, and Horus. There is the Germanic triad of Wodan, Thorr, and Donar. The great Hindu trinity is the Trimurti of Brahma, Siva, and Vishna. In Taoism, there are three pure ones.

three pure

In Buddhism, there are three treasures Buddha, the Dharma, and the Sangha.

Speaking of Religion

I was shocked to read the following.

“Jesus is saying who can enter the city of God. Just listen to this – ‘Without are dogs and sorcerers and whoremongers and murderers and idolaters, and whosoever loveth or maketh a lie’. You see the company dogs are supposed to keep?”

“Travels with my Aunt” by Graham Greene.

Three More

And so it is with dogs. There is harmony between three dogs. They are relaxed and content living their lives the best way possible. They love and care for each other. Dogs help me adjust to human life in a foreign place. They indicate the degree to which I can trust or feel comfortable with the native population. They act as ambassadors.

Three dogs on Bora Bora

The dog in the middle is a mother. The dog on the right has a bad limp. They are on the main street of Vaitape.

The Mother

She reminds me of the dog roaming the resort in Punta del Este. Maybe these homeless dogs all take on the same appearance after a while. Maybe this is the ‘Third World Street Dog’ breed. You might say that this is not the third world with its $12,000 a night over-the-water bungalows.

Bungalow in Bora Bora

This 2-story bungalow is $12,000 per night. For the record, it can no longer be called a bungalow, can it? These pictures were taken while touring the island in a boat piloted by Captain Dangerous.

Bungalow

And I would agree that this is not third-world material. However, many homes on these islands, away from the glitzy tourist hubs, would fit right into a slum in Fortaleza, Brazil, for example, like this one.

crappy house in Bora Bora

Our Humble Abode on Bora Bora

Bora Bora house

We stayed in one of a series of small one-room bungalows on the edge of the sea, which was so calm that Google registered it as a lake. And that is why the Pacific Ocean is called the Pacific Ocean.

Love Affair with Tahiti and Tattoos

Audience with the Queen

Captain Samuel Wallis stood in the presence of the Queen of Tahiti. Young women dressed only in grass skirts danced to the beat of the drums in the firelight. The Queen’s bodyguards stood close to the English officers. Large and also half-dressed, they seemed to press in upon the three Englishmen. The luscious scent of vanilla drizzled on their faces and in the very air they breathed. Wallis lifted his hand to his head feeling slightly dizzy. The heat from the torches was uncomfortable. He had suffered from scurvy for the last two weeks and was unable to come ashore until now. He began to feel quite weak. Sweat beaded on his brow. Then suddenly, he fainted.

It was July 1767. Even though the HMS Dolphin had brought 3,000 pounds of a concentrated mix of lemons and oranges called “soup” to prevent scurvy, the extended weeks at sea in the Pacific searching for land used up their provisions and many fell ill with scurvy including the Captain himself.

Queen meeting Captain in Tahiti
Queen Oberea Meets Captain Wallis This drawing and the others are representations of the events by John Hawkesworth in 1773

Hats Off

The Queen jumped from her chair and rushed to where the captain lay on his back on the sandy ground. The ship’s doctor knelt to tend to the captain and, as he did so, he removed the white wig from his head. A gasp erupted from the darkened edges of the circle. All movement ceased. The natives covered their mouths and stared at the strangers, not comprehending what they had just witnessed.

Home Remedy on Tahiti

A muffled female giggle broke the silence. The captain even managed to laugh. Queen Oberea stood up straight and ordered the captain, who had recovered slightly, to be taken to her quarters. Once at her house, she instructed young girls to massage his body. Later that day, after the young captain, 39 years old, had somewhat recovered, the queen escorted him back to the ship holding him close as they walked.

Early the next morning before the sun even rose the Queen was there beside the ship in her canoe. The ship’s doctor counseled Captain Wallis saying, “Sir, I think it would do you good to go ashore and have a rest.” The good captain took this advice and reveled in the tender affections lavished on him by the Queen of Tahiti for seven days and six nights.

All Good Things Must Come to an End Even in Tahiti

Finally, this idyll came to a close. Captain Wallis knew that if he did not leave soon he might never leave at all. He ordered the ship to prepare to sail. The last night in Old Tahiti Queen Oberea climbed aboard the HMS Dolphin and threw herself on the arms chest. Men stood by silently as she wept. Her heart was breaking for all to see. At last, only a soft whimper escaped her lips as she climbed off the ship and into the waiting outrigger canoe. Sailors tossed gifts to her. The Queen sat motionless as her people caught the trifles. She did not want these offensive trinkets. She wanted nothing except that which was now beyond her grasp forever.

Queen Receiving Gifts in Tahiti

Queen receives gifts from English Captain.

A Tearful Adieu

Teary eyed leave taking in Tahiti

Tangerine Moon in Old Tahiti

That night, the last night in Old Tahiti, Captain Wallis paced in his small cabin. He felt conflicted knowing he should stay aboard HMS Dolphin and prepare for the long journey ahead and yet he longed to hear Oberea’s voice one more time and gently kiss her full, bee-stung lips stained with papaya juice. Finally, he walked out onto the deck and was suddenly arrested by the presence of an enormous full moon rising like a fire from the purple night. He inhaled the vanilla-scented breeze. There was no help for it. He called two of his men and they rowed ashore. The men waited for him on the beach until just as dawn broke the captain returned. He was pale and his expression grim. That morning the HMS Dolphin left Tahiti and never returned. The first European contact with Tahiti had been made.

Wallis being attacked in Tahiti Bay
Matavai Bay, Tahiti

It was not Love at First Sight

It was war. Cannonballs and stones were launched before the Queen and Captain got to know each other. The fighting started on June 24, 1767, when the first Europeans entered Matavai Bay at 6 a.m. The crew of HMS Dolphin consisted of 160 men. By 8 a.m. Captain Wallis writes that there were “not less than 300 canoes and at least two thousand men in them with another 1,000 men on shore.” The English fired their great guns. One of the shots hit a canoe with the ringleader on board. Within half an hour not one canoe could be seen.

Moorea: Land of the Gecko

Smokey Moorea

Moo’rea

They were burning something on the island of Moorea the day we arrived. Our goal was to rent e-bikes and ride around the island for the day. However, when I saw the narrow, winding mountain roads I changed my mind.


Moorea

When looked at from afar, Moorea has been referred to as a sleeping dinosaur or, in Captain Cook’s time, a castle with spires and turrets.

Moe on ferry
Moe

Eat While Hiding or Moorea

yellow lizard on Tahiti

This island was originally called Aimeho meaning “eat while hiding”. When warfare broke out between the clans, warriors would flee to Moorea and hide there until things settled down. Then one day a spiritual advisor discovered a yellow lizard or “moorea” on the island and the name of the island was changed.

I found one of these guys lurking in my bathroom on Bora Bora. He looks like a guy who wanted to date me once. Can you see the lovesick cast in his eyes? Incredibly, they named a whole island in honor of something like this. However, I will say that Geckos do have one saving grace that places them above their fellow lizards. Unlike anoles, they do not eat each other unless pressed to do so. Good for you, Geckos!

Eating While on Moorea

What do you do when you have a few hours to kill until your ferry takes you back to Tahiti? Feed the natives, of course. I went to the corner store and bought two large cans of dog food.


Unfortunately, this guy, who needed it the most, kept missing out on the food. We finally managed to feed him a little bit before we got back on the ferry.


Corner Store in Moorea
Corner Store
Playing Game on Moorea
Playing a game across the street from the store. In the background, you can see Tahiti.
Donations Box
At the Ferry

This attempt to care for the poor animals on Moorea warmed the cockles of my heart. But, I feel better if I can feed the dogs myself.

Pro-Life Film on the Ferry?

Film on Ferry from Tahiti to Moorea

“No doubt it was thought that this thing could not feel pain having no consciousness yet.” Translation of the above French subtitles. Our entertainment sailing back to Tahiti.


One Last Look

View of Moo’rea from the airport on Tahiti.

Moorea from the airport on Tahiti
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