Bora Bora or First Born Island

Mana is very important for Polynesians. It is a life force, an energy that flows through all people and things. It can be gained or lost depending on what you do.

After Captain D dropped us off on Bora Bora, our new guide said, “I am not welcoming you to Bora Bora because that means nothing. It is the land itself that has mana or spirit.” He stomped his foot on the ground when he said this. He believes that if you disrespect the land or these monoliths that islanders pray to (by peeing on them, for example), they will get you back. It’s only a matter of time. His name is Alex and he is the only Tahitian left who wears the traditional Tahitian sarong.

Wartime on Bora Bora

Alex told us that when the 5,000 American servicemen arrived on the island, there was a population of 2,000. They made a road going all the way around the island. It is still the only road on Bora Bora. But, that’s not all they made. Yeah, that’s right, babies. I asked him if the women were allowed to return to the States with their “baby daddies”. He said no, they weren’t. U.S. military rule was that the men were to return to their wives and girlfriends. Yes, those men served their country well.

More Questions about Bora Bora I Asked Alex

1. If there are no hospitals on the island, where do women go when they are having a baby? They are flown to Raiatea.
2. Are there cemeteries here? No. Families bury their loved ones in the backyard. Isn’t Elvis Presley buried in his backyard? I didn’t ask him that.
3. Are there any wild animals or snakes? No snakes. Just chickens and wild pigs.

A Question of Faith

I asked if there was a synagogue. Leave it to me to ask the one question that’s on everyone’s mind, right? He said, “No! We don’t want that.” Then he caught himself and said, “The government doesn’t want that.” All 6 heads in the truck didn’t move. We stared at him. Nobody said a word. I had no more questions.

There is an ironic twist to this story on the next page.