Amelia Island: Pirate Paradise in North Florida

Amelia River Cruise

Things finally settled down after the Civil War. The island became a busy shrimping port, and then it was discovered by tourists. These tourists included uber-wealthy bluebloods like Carnegie, Rockefeller, and Vanderbilt. In fact, Cumberland Island, a few miles north of Amelia Island, is still owned by the Carnegies and Rockefellers. Those who keep abreast of high-society news might remember that John Kennedy Jr. married Carolyn Bessette there in 1996.

Cumberland Island, Georgia

The boat ride lasts for two hours, but it’s more of a tidal creek cruise than a river cruise. We sat outside to get the full blast of wind and sea spray. We saw wild dolphins. This concerned me because the captain had just finished telling us that we were crossing an area of water that was one of the largest breeding grounds for hammerhead sharks in the world. Then again, dolphins are smart, they know what they’re doing.

Tiger Island

As we headed north towards Cumberland, a long, skinny island appeared on our left. It was void of houses and people; no boats or people fishing even. Only a few seabirds, driftwood, and clumps of Saw Palmetto lay scattered along the shore. The captain explained that it is Tiger Island, and is home to thousands of rattlesnakes.

Before the snakes arrived, however, there was a raging epidemic of Yellow Fever in 1877. Some people took refuge on Tiger Island, but it wasn’t long before they fell ill, and The Sisters of St. Joseph from France came to nurse them. A few of these nuns died from the disease and are buried at Bosque Bello cemetery on Amelia.

Amelia Island Population

The population of Amelia Island is 21,000. It is 13 miles long and 2 miles wide. Cumberland Island is 17.5 miles long and 3 miles wide at its widest point and only has 40 people living on it. No more than 300 people are allowed to visit or camp on Cumberland at one time. Sixty percent of the island is a national park, while the rest of it is owned by the Carnegies and Rockefellers. We sailed past their houses, and that’s when we saw the wild horse.

Wild Horses

He was a young male, dark gray in color. Young males are expelled by the head male of the band. These young males then form groups of their own in twos or threes. Horses were first brought to Florida in the 1500s by the Spanish. They were small Arabian horses. Then the British imported the larger draft horses. At one point, thoroughbreds and polo horses made their way here. The point is that the horses on this island are horses, not ponies. The park people do not feed them, treat them when they are ill, or provide any kind of aid at all. There are approximately 300 of them living on the island.

There are also bobcats, deer, rattlesnakes, wild pigs, and even wild cows here. I wonder how they make it. These animals actually swim from island to island all the time.

“Smile and Wave”

There is a Trident nuclear submarine station right across from Mouse Carnegie’s house. Since this is the deepest natural harbor on the East Coast, it’s a perfect fit. The captain told us that there are actual attack dolphins trained to intercept anyone who comes near the installation. I don’t know if I believe that. Although I suppose you could train a dolphin to do lots of stuff. As I said before, they are smart. He also told us to “smile and wave” to all the Russian and Chinese satellite cameras taking pictures of us from space.